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Buying guide

Furnace and air conditioning.

The most expensive thing most River Forest homeowners buy that is not a car or the house itself. Here is the whole job, from the page on your counter to the first cold night.

About 15 minutes. General information for River Forest homeowners. Sizing, equipment selection and diagnosis require a contractor’s assessment of your specific house. Five deeper articles are linked under Go deeper.

Swipe sideways to see the whole drawing.
  1. Furnace. The box in the basement that burns gas to make heat. It also holds the blower, the fan that pushes air through the ducts all year, so it matters for cooling too.
  2. Evaporator coil. A metal coil that sits on top of the furnace and gets very cold in summer. Air blowing across it is what cools the house. It works as a pair with the outdoor unit.
  3. Condenser. The outdoor unit with the big fan. It squeezes the refrigerant and releases the heat it pulled out of your house into the yard.
  4. Line set. Two copper tubes that carry refrigerant between the coil inside and the condenser outside, one direction on each tube.
  5. Ductwork. The sheet metal tubes that move air to the rooms and back. Supply ducts deliver heated or cooled air; the return duct brings it back to the blower.
  6. Chimney. The brick stack most River Forest houses were built with. Standard-efficiency furnaces and gas water heaters vent their exhaust up it; high-efficiency furnaces vent out a side wall through plastic pipe instead.
  7. Water heater. Separate appliance, but it usually shares the chimney with the furnace, which is why the two are often discussed together.
  8. Electrical disconnect. The small shutoff switch beside the condenser. The outdoor unit runs on a dedicated 240-volt circuit from the house panel.
A River Forest basement in section. Eight parts make up a central heating and cooling system, and the diagram shows how they connect.

At a glance, River Forest

Typical installed price$8,000 to $18,000
Best time of yearApril to May or September to October
PermitLike-kind replacement is on the Village’s no-permit list, but the contractor must be licensed and bonded with the Village. New equipment, new central air, a fuel or venting change, a relocation or new piping needs a permit. The Village’s express-permit page also lists furnaces and air conditioners, so confirm with Building & Zoning at (708) 714-3552 before work starts.
Most common hidden costVenting the water heater once the furnace leaves the chimney

Ranges reflect recent River Forest and near-west-suburban work on pre-war housing. Your house, scope and season move the number. Not a quote.

Planning range

What should this cost on your block?

Pick what matches your house. The range updates and shows which choice is moving it. A planning number, not a quote: it is what an estimate in this range should look like before you get one.

House size
Most Tudors and foursquares between Thatcher and Harlem.
Equipment tier
Entry tier. Fine when sized right.
Ductwork
Assumes the return is big enough for the new blower.
Chimney and water heater
Water heater already vents on its own.
Electrical
Installed, River Forest
$8,000 to $12,500
Base for this project$8,000 to $12,500

Tier and ductwork move the number most. Venting and the water heater are the surprise items on 96% furnaces.

An estimate far below this range usually left something out. One far above deserves a second look. Either way, the rows below tell you where to look.

Planning figures, not a quote. Ranges are built from recent near-west-suburban work on pre-war houses and reviewed September 2026. Nobody is bound by them, and your house may legitimately fall outside them.

Why River Forest houses are different

Most of River Forest went up between 1900 and 1940. The brick Tudors and Prairie-style houses toward Keystone and Lathrop, the frame two-flats near Harlem, the big foursquares along Park and Franklin were built for gravity furnaces or radiators, not for the forced-air equipment that sits in most basements today.

That history shows up in three places on every estimate. The ductwork was threaded through closets and chases after the fact, and it is often undersized on the return side. The chimney was built for a coal furnace and a water heater sharing one flue. And the electrical service was upgraded once, usually in the 1970s, to a standard that no longer fits a variable-speed blower and a two-stage condenser.

Two contractors can look at the same basement on the 800 block of Keystone and reach honestly different conclusions about how much of that needs to change. That is the source of most of the three-thousand-dollar gaps homeowners cannot explain.

What you are actually buying

A split system is two machines sharing one duct network. In the basement, the furnace burns gas to make heat and holds the blower that moves air all year. On top of it sits the evaporator coil, which gets cold in summer. Outside is the condenser, the unit with the fan. Two copper tubes, the line set, connect coil to condenser.

Replacing "the furnace and the AC" means replacing four things: furnace, coil, condenser, and usually the line set. The ducts, in most cases, stay. Roughly half of what you pay is those four objects. The other half is a day or two of skilled labor that permanently modifies your house: sheet metal transitions, venting, a condensate drain, gas and electrical connections, the permit, and hauling a 1994 furnace up a stairwell with a turn in it.

So read the estimate as an answer to one question: what are you going to do to my house? The number at the bottom is a consequence of that answer.

Reading the estimate, row by row

Most estimates follow the same order. Customer and site. Equipment with model numbers. Accessories. A prose installation scope. Included work. Exclusions. Warranty. Price and terms. If your page has a price and equipment but no scope and no exclusions, you are holding an estimate for an object, not a project.

These are the rows to compare, and what belongs in each.

Illustrative exampleThe rows worth comparing on any HVAC estimate
Illustrative HVAC comparison
What to compareEstimate AEstimate B
Price$13,500Illustrative price$11,900Preliminary, subject to site verification
Furnace96% AFUE, 80,000 BTU, two-stage, variable-speed blower96% AFUE, 80,000 BTU, two-stage, variable-speed blower
Air conditioner3-ton, 16 SEER2, two-stage, matched coil3-ton, 16 SEER2, two-stage, matched coil
Permit + old equipment removalIncludedIncluded
Parts warranty10 years, registration required10 years, registration required
Labor warranty1 year2 years
Electrical workIncludedAssumes existing 240V circuit and disconnect reused, panel has capacity
Installation timingWithin 5 daysWithin 7 days

Fictional numbers built to look like a typical River Forest job. Matching labels do not establish equivalent equipment; model numbers do.

Price. Installed cash price, no financing, no rebates subtracted. A monthly payment is not a price.

Furnace and air conditioner. Capacity, efficiency, staging, blower type, and the full model number for each of the three pieces. Without the model numbers you cannot check anything else.

Permit and removal. The Village’s permit sheet lists like-kind furnace and air conditioner replacement as not needing a permit. New equipment, new central air, a fuel or venting change, a relocation or new piping does need one, and the contractor must be licensed and bonded with the Village either way. The Village’s express-permit page also lists furnaces and air conditioners, so confirm with Building & Zoning at (708) 714-3552 before work starts. The page should say whether a permit is included, with the fee included or stated, and that the old equipment is hauled away.

Parts and labor warranty. Two different promises from two different companies. Separate rows on purpose.

Electrical work. Included, or exactly what is being assumed. "As needed" is a price that has not been set.

Installation timing. A window the contractor will commit to, not "to be confirmed."

Equipment in plain terms

Capacity. BTU for heating, tons for cooling; one ton is 12,000 BTU. An 80,000 BTU furnace and a three-ton condenser are typical for a moderate River Forest house. Bigger is not better: oversized equipment short-cycles, which leaves rooms uneven and, on the cooling side, leaves the house cold and clammy because the AC only removes humidity while it runs.

Sizing. Capacity should come from a load calculation, called a Manual J. In practice many replacements are sized by reading the label on the old unit. That inherits any 1988 mistake and ignores your new windows, attic insulation and finished third floor. Ask: did this size come from a calculation or from the old equipment?

AFUE. Furnace efficiency. An 80% furnace vents hot exhaust up the chimney. A 96% furnace is a condensing furnace: it vents cool exhaust through PVC out a sidewall and produces acidic condensate that needs a drain. The efficiency choice is therefore also an installation choice, covered below.

SEER2. Cooling efficiency under the current federal test. SEER2 numbers read slightly lower than old SEER numbers for comparable equipment, so a "16 SEER" estimate and a "15.2 SEER2" estimate may be the same machine. Ask both contractors for SEER2.

Swipe sideways to see the whole drawing.
The same cold day three ways. Single-stage blasts and stops, which is what makes the second floor swing. Two-stage idles in low gear most of the day. Variable matches the house. Staging is also the largest single price spread in the equipment half of an estimate.

Staging. Single-stage runs full blast or off. Two-stage has a low gear it uses most of the time. Variable adjusts continuously. Longer, gentler cycles are what fix a second floor that runs five degrees warm in August, which describes half the tall narrow houses near Lincoln school. Staging is also the largest single price spread in the equipment half of an estimate.

Blower. A standard PSC motor or a variable-speed ECM. The ECM is quieter, ramps up and down, and uses far less electricity on long low-speed cycles.

Matched pair. The condenser and coil are rated together. A new condenser on an old coil forfeits the rating and often the warranty. "Matched coil" on the page is not filler.

Thermostat. Two-stage and variable equipment need a thermostat that can talk to it. Some brands use communicating controls that lock you into that brand's thermostat. Fine, but know before the wall plate goes on.

What drives the price

When two estimates are three thousand dollars apart, ask which half of the number is different.

Swipe sideways to see the whole drawing.
Roughly how an installed price divides. Proportions are typical, not exact. The left half is the equipment tier you chose. The right half is the contractor's judgment about your house, and it is where a thin estimate hides its savings.

Tier and staging. Single-stage to variable is the widest spread. If one contractor quoted single-stage and the other variable, you are looking at two products, not a price difference.

Efficiency and what it drags along. Going from 80% to 96% means new venting through an exterior wall, a condensate line, sometimes a pump, and often a chimney liner for the water heater left behind.

Ductwork. The most common invisible difference. One contractor priced a new return plenum; the other wrote "existing ductwork to remain." Both pages say furnace and AC.

Electrical, venting, drainage. Where "as needed" hides. Panels here were often last upgraded in the 1970s.

Labor and access. A one-day swap in an open utility room and a two-day job in a low coal-room basement with a turn in the stairs are different amounts of work. Ask how many installers and how many days.

Overhead. A company with dispatch, a service department and a phone that gets answered at 9 p.m. in February costs more per hour than a two-truck shop. Sometimes that is worth paying for. That is a judgment, not a scam.

Accessories. Filter cabinet, humidifier, surge protector, UV lamp. Some are useful in a dry old house. Some are margin. Did you ask for it?

Ductwork, venting and the water heater

This section is the reason River Forest estimates deserve a second look more than most.

Ductwork. New equipment has airflow requirements. If the return duct cannot move what the new blower expects, the system underperforms no matter how good the equipment is. Undersized returns are extremely common in houses where the ducts were added in 1955 and modified in 1988. Ask whether the ductwork was evaluated or assumed.

Swipe sideways to see the whole drawing.
The orphaned flue. When a 96% furnace vents out the sidewall, the water heater is left alone in a chimney sized for two appliances. Its cooler exhaust condenses on the way up and dissolves the mortar from inside. The fix is a liner sized for the water heater alone, or a power-vent water heater that leaves the chimney entirely.

Venting and the orphaned water heater. If your furnace shares a masonry chimney with a gas water heater and the new furnace vents out the sidewall, the water heater is now alone in a flue sized for two appliances. The exhaust cools too fast, condenses, and eats the mortar from the inside. The fix is a stainless or aluminum liner, or a different water heater. A thorough estimate raises this. A thin one leaves it for installation day. See the chimney and water heater guides for the other side of this problem.

Condensate. Gravity to a floor drain is cheap. A pump, a long run, or a route through finished space is not.

Electrical. A disconnect, a dedicated circuit, or panel capacity. If the panel is full, someone has to deal with it and it belongs on the page with a number.

Warranties

Swipe sideways to see the whole drawing.
Two promises on one timeline. The manufacturer covers parts for ten years if someone registers the equipment inside the window. The contractor covers labor for one or two. The gap between them is where the year-three service call lands.

Two warranties from two parties. The parts warranty comes from the manufacturer and covers components. The labor warranty comes from the contractor and covers the technician's time. In year three, when the inducer motor fails, the motor is free and the visit usually is not.

Most manufacturers offer the full parts term only if the equipment is registered within sixty or ninety days. Unregistered, ten years often becomes five. Ask, in writing, who registers it and when you will see confirmation.

Labor terms of one and two years are common and are one of the most useful differences between otherwise identical estimates. Ask whether diagnostic time is covered. Ask what happens if the contractor is no longer in business.

Coverage lapses for reasons unrelated to the equipment: missed registration, mismatched coil, skipped annual maintenance where the terms require it, unpermitted installation. Keep a folder.

Heat pumps and dual fuel

A heat pump is an air conditioner that runs backwards in winter. Cold-climate models now work at temperatures that were unrealistic a decade ago, and a dual-fuel setup pairs one with a gas furnace that takes over when it gets cold enough. If a heat pump appears on your estimate, the questions are what happens on the coldest days, what the backup is, how the changeover is controlled, and whether your panel can take it. The heat pump guide covers this in full.

Timing and the HVAC calendar

A furnace estimate written during a January cold snap is priced in a different market than the same work in April. Contractors have a fixed number of crews, and most people replace a furnace the week it dies, which is the week everyone else's dies.

April to May and September to October are the shoulder seasons: crews have room, pricing is softer, and there is time for a site visit nobody rushes. If your system is still running and you are planning ahead, you are in the strongest position a homeowner can be in. Say so on the estimate and let contractors compete without a schedule squeeze.

Financing and rebates in 2026

Ask for the installed cash price first. Promotional financing often carries a dealer fee folded into the installed cost, so the cash buyer and the financed buyer are quoted different numbers for the same work. A home equity line or credit union loan is often cheaper over the life of the loan.

The federal Section 25C credit expired for equipment placed in service after December 31, 2025. If a 2026 estimate mentions a federal tax credit, ask which program. Nicor Gas pays a rebate on high-efficiency furnaces: $150 at 95% AFUE or better and $225 at 97% or better on its 2026 application, filed after installation. ComEd’s heat pump rebates have been substantially larger than Nicor’s furnace rebate and are normally handled through the contractor or distributor; check ComEd for the current amount. Ask whether the price shown is before or after any rebate, and who files.

Red flags

  • No model numbers.
  • "As needed," "if required," or "not specified" beside electrical, venting or ductwork.
  • A discount that expires tonight.
  • A financing pitch before you have heard the cash price.
  • A diagnosis of a cracked heat exchanger with nothing to show you.
  • No installation window and no statement of how long the price holds.
  • Silence on the line set, the water heater vent, or where the condensate goes.

Questions to ask

  • What are the full model numbers of the furnace, condenser and indoor coil?
  • Did the size come from a load calculation or from the old equipment?
  • Single-stage, two-stage or variable, and why that for my house?
  • Does this include duct modifications, and what if more are needed once you open it up?
  • Is electrical work included, and does my panel have capacity?
  • How is the new furnace vented, and does that change how my water heater vents?
  • Is the line set replaced, flushed or reused?
  • What is the labor warranty, in years, and does it cover diagnostics?
  • Who registers the parts warranty, and when do I get confirmation?
  • What is the installed cash price, and how long does it hold?
  • How many installers, how many days, and if the job needs a permit, who pulls it?

Go deeper

Five longer articles cover each part of this guide in detail: how to read the estimate, what drives the price, equipment explained, warranties, and questions to ask.

The short list

Before you compare anything, find these on the page: three model numbers; capacity and efficiency for each; the installation scope paragraph, read twice; every "as needed" circled; both warranty terms in years; the cash price and how long it holds. Anything you could not find is your list of questions.

Then put a second offer next to it. It is an evening you would rather spend at a Bulldogs game, and it is worth it.

When to do it

Pick a month. See what the work itself needs.

Green months are when HVAC work can normally meet the conditions below in River Forest. These are requirements of the job, not a contractor's schedule. We cannot tell you how quickly any company will get to you.

  • Indoor workA furnace or air handler swap happens in the basement, so outdoor temperature does not stop it.
  • Above 60°F to prove the cooling sideRefrigerant charge and airflow on a new air conditioner cannot be properly verified when it is cold out. In winter the contractor has to come back in spring to finish commissioning.
  • Not the week of a hard freezeThe heat is off while the old furnace comes out. If this is the only heat in the house, avoid a stretch of single digits.
  • Combustion venting settled firstIf you are moving to a high-efficiency furnace, the chimney and the water heater venting both change. That decision has to be made before the install day, not on it.
Starting in Oct
Conditions normally line up
Good month

January and July are when systems fail and calendars fill. Shopping in April or September puts you in a calmer market.

Weather windows for the near west suburbs. Dates, availability and how long the work takes are between you and the contractor. See Timing and availability.

Before you sign

The HVAC estimate checklist.

Put the estimate next to this and tick what you can find on the page. Anything unticked is a question for the contractor, not a reason to walk. Ticks save in this browser; print it for the kitchen table.

0 of 13
  1. Specific to HVAC
  2. On every estimate, any trade

Village line for this trade: Like-kind replacement is on the Village’s no-permit list, but the contractor must be licensed and bonded with the Village. New equipment, new central air, a fuel or venting change, a relocation or new piping needs a permit. The Village’s express-permit page also lists furnaces and air conditioners, so confirm with Building & Zoning at (708) 714-3552 before work starts.

Permits, programs and the Village

What the Village of River Forest says

  • The Village’s work-requiring-a-permit sheet names “Replacement HVAC equipment (with like kind)” as exempt, and “Central air conditioning (new)” and “HVAC equipment (new)” as requiring a permit.
  • The Village’s express-permit page lists furnaces and air conditioners among its permit types, which does not square with the sheet. Call Building & Zoning at (708) 714-3552 before work starts and get the answer for your job.
  • Every contractor working in River Forest must hold a Village contractor license and bond; the Building Department keeps the list.
  • Boilers and heating units appear on the plumbing permit list, so a boiler swap is permitted work.
  • Working without a required permit: work stopped, a surcharge on the permit fee, and possible removal at the inspector’s discretion.

Summarized from Village of River Forest permit sheets, engineering details and resident assistance program packets. Rules and fees change; confirm with the Building Department at (708) 714-3552 before you sign. Full detail under Village information.

Read nextHeat pump conversion.Cold-climate heat pumps, dual-fuel with a gas backup, what happens at five below, and the ComEd rebate.

Who does HVAC work in River Forest?

The Village licensed contractor list for this trade, plus companies neighbors recommend, with phone numbers and what we could learn about each one.

See the contractor list